Hi everyone,
Hope your week is going well? Mine is super busy (for someone who is technically not working). Went to the second session of my six week course: pattern drafting at Clothkits: less maths this week for me to fret about.
This week was mainly spent cutting and sticking – it reminded me of the best primary school lesson ever!
We cut out six – I don’t know what they are called – bodice fronts? – and manipulated the darts into one of six different positions so that we could see how it would work in practice. I actually really enjoy the theory side of things.
The one I found most baffling was where the darts are right across the middle of your chest. I really couldn’t work out why you would ever do this but the tutor explained – with the aid of a piece of lined paper – the effect which would be created if your fabric had horizontal stripes. I have to say – there was a light bulb moment when it finally twigged.
You’ll have to excuse my shoddy photos – there just wasn’t enough light and I was rushing because I needed to concentrate on what the tutor was saying rather than faff around with my IPAD.
We have to start collecting ideas of what we would like our own dress to be like. I hadn’t realised but the ultimate objective of the course is, as well as making the blocks, to have made a toile of our own design. After having spent the morning manipulating darts, I think I am going to go for a bodice with wing darts – similar to princess seams but the darts go under the arm rather than up to the shoulder. I am thoroughly enjoying the course and am very excited to be making up my own design – at this stage I am thinking a Christmas Day dress, perhaps in a floral needlecord.
We then spent some time fitting the toiles we had made up for homework. My darts had to be lowered by a centimetre and there was also an adjustment to remove some fabric from the back shoulders and to reduce the overall length. It was really interesting to see how you swivelled the darts around to move the fabric from one area to the other. Please excuse my mum tum on display – I am amused by the intense concentration on my face! We now have to make up a second toile incorporating all of our adjustments – precision is key apparently.
At the end of the morning the tutor, Maria Pulley, took us into her studio (which is based above Clothkits) to show us some of the beautiful couture garments she is working on. One of her original designs for the formal robes of the High Sherriff of (?) had had its inaugural wear the previous day at a Remembrance Day service and Maria showed us her initial sketches. It is a real privilege to be taught be someone who is clearly incredibly gifted.
Will close now with some good news – I went for a job interview yesterday and was successful. I was really chuffed with all the lovely messages I received on my Instagram so thank you lovely sewing community – you lift my spirits.
Toodle pip,
Clarinda x
Congratulations on the new job! 🙂 When do you start? Looks a fun course, bet this will useful over and over in your future makes!
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I’ve just been reading through my blog feed, and found this post http://en.decoudvite.com/2015/11/blind-sewing/ It’s a Ralph Pink dress with a fantastic hortizontal pleat on the bodice, and it made me think of your draft! Lynne
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How interesting and wasn’t she a brave girl to attempt that frock with so little info about it? Thanks for the link – have certainly never seen anything like that before.
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You are certainly making me want to do this course – it sounds brilliant. That ‘across the chest dart’ looks like one to try with a stripy fabric. I do know Maria and have been to a one day course with her at Clothkits. Her creations are amazing! It is such great news about your new job – I look forward to hearing about it.
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She is a very patient teacher and I loved seeing her studio. Tried to include a link to her website but the address I have must be wrong. See you soon!
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Maria’s website seems to be down at the moment. See you soon!
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That course looks utterly fantastic. I love the idea of shifting darts all over the place. The design possibilities are endless. Congratulations on your new job. Xx
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Thanks! To be honest I haven’t given much thought to bust darts before but this week I have been staring at people’s chests without realising as I do my research!
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Looks like my sort of course! Congrats again on the job although you may get a bit too used to your sewcation to do the work thing again!
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I am only two weeks in and I think you could be right – I have had clashing lunch dates already!
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Wonderful post! Congratulations on your new job too!
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Cheers me dears x
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Yay! Congratulations on your new job! And well done learning all these new skills. The Dimpsey T I recently made has a strange upside down T shaped dart at the front. It hangs lovely but I never thought of using it for stripy fabric, so Thankyou 😀
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Thanks – will have a look back through your posts to have a peep at that. Still swooning over your lovely evening gown btw – love the sheer sleeves and thigh slit you naughty minx!
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Haha! We all have a cheeky side! The top is the one with elephants & Indians 😃
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Congratulations on the new job! I’m sorry you had to go through all the pain to get there, but I’m sure it’ll be for the best in the end. xx
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Thank you – fingers crossed
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i loved doing small scale pattern manipulations like this! I still have mini blocks for drawing round and doing this haha! Course looks great too, hope you’re enjoying
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Ahh, is that what they are called – mini blocks.
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So tempted by this course. Looks amazing. Maybe next year? Congratulations on the new job.
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Thanks – if you can get to ClothKits I would recommend their courses. There is also a lovely, purposeful atmosphere in the studio.
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Congratulations! That must be such an interesting course. I love taking sewing courses!
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I’m becoming obsessed – booked another one last night to sew with sequins!
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That bodice with the horizontal dart is brilliant. Now I’m trying to work out how it’s sewn! And congratulations again on your new job!
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Yes, thinking about it now I realised that never crossed my mind when I was waving my blue stick about.
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